Sunday Waffles
In our house a regular occurrence, almost a tradition if you like, are early morning waffles with ou...
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, the crash of the closeout behind them, carefully balanced in the arms of the Mother on their way to shore. Most often it's called getting shacked.
I have never had the opportunity, but keep surfing in the hope that one day the waves and my timing will be just right and I'll be ready. I can only dream what it must be like, for now.
C.J. Hobgood is a WSL (World Surf League) champion surfer, and getting shacked is probably an everyday occurrence for him. In 2015 he filmed a GoPro video, dancing along a perfect wave into a perfect sunset in an apocalyptic drama that took my breath away . . . and I had to paint it.
Similar Paintings
Fire and Ice
I’ll be the first to admit, I often paint from photographs. Not all of us can hire models or t...
O.B. Closeout
A moment at one of my favorite beach breaks, Ocean Beach, the Dog Beach end, in San Diego. There are...
Morning Palm
This freshly trimmed palm growing just over our fence greets me every morning, I thought I’d r...