Precious
There is a calm amid the chaos of the ocean waves. The rising and falling of the water, the energy o...
Pull the Blanket Over
The waves in San Diego are generally small. When they get big, they're seldom rideable.
But sometimes you get to see a little bit of that fabled tube, the shack, the blanket of water enveloping you and your board just before it closes over you and rolls you into the sand. Pull the Blanket Over was from one of those days when mother ocean wrapped me in her arms . . . just before slapping me against the sand. :-)
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