La Mesa Dawn
I am an early riser. Like 4:30 A.M. It gives me time to sip my coffee, lounge around a little before...
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, the crash of the closeout behind them, carefully balanced in the arms of the Mother on their way to shore. Most often it's called getting shacked.
I have never had the opportunity, but keep surfing in the hope that one day the waves and my timing will be just right and I'll be ready. I can only dream what it must be like, for now.
C.J. Hobgood is a WSL (World Surf League) champion surfer, and getting shacked is probably an everyday occurrence for him. In 2015 he filmed a GoPro video, dancing along a perfect wave into a perfect sunset in an apocalyptic drama that took my breath away . . . and I had to paint it.
I am an early riser. Like 4:30 A.M. It gives me time to sip my coffee, lounge around a little before...
This freshly trimmed palm growing just over our fence greets me every morning, I thought I’d r...
The waves in San Diego are generally small. When they get big, they’re seldom rideable. But so...
Watching a woman at the mirror in the morning is a bit like watching someone meditate, the careful, ...