A Moment to Myself
Just give me a minute, will you? Can I take a breath, hear and do and think about NOTHING for just o...

There is nothing like this feeling. The wind in your face, the weight of your ride held high over your head, the smell of mother ocean wafting around you, the first splash of the chilly water around your ankles, the feel of a trillion billion grains of sand beneath your feet as you shuffle out through the shallows on a new adventure.
Sometimes it doesn't go well. Sometimes stingrays find your ankles for target practice, sometimes the fin of another surfer sends you for stitches, sometimes the surf is so bad it's more frustrating than ecstatic.
But it always starts this way and always . . . you are so grateful you went.
Just give me a minute, will you? Can I take a breath, hear and do and think about NOTHING for just o...
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