Hobgood’s Ride
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, th...
Vortex
A breaking wave holds almost more beauty beneath than from above. The chaos and power that brings a wave to shore, hundreds of tons of water throwing itself at the beach, the opposing forces that dive beneath it that cause it to fold, are absent from the sand below, you only feel a gentle push and pull, you get to watch the action of the vortex of tons of water battle above you in an eddy of calm.
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