Pondering Atlantis
One of the things I love about surfing is just being on the water, letting mother ocean take me up a...
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, the crash of the closeout behind them, carefully balanced in the arms of the Mother on their way to shore. Most often it's called getting shacked.
I have never had the opportunity, but keep surfing in the hope that one day the waves and my timing will be just right and I'll be ready. I can only dream what it must be like, for now.
C.J. Hobgood is a WSL (World Surf League) champion surfer, and getting shacked is probably an everyday occurrence for him. In 2015 he filmed a GoPro video, dancing along a perfect wave into a perfect sunset in an apocalyptic drama that took my breath away . . . and I had to paint it.
One of the things I love about surfing is just being on the water, letting mother ocean take me up a...
When our cats practice hunting in the house, they know no size. They are every bit the ferocious hun...
I have painted of the inspiration of Pascale Honore and Duct Tape Surfing in Anything is Possible. I...
A moment at one of my favorite beach breaks, Ocean Beach, the Dog Beach end, in San Diego. There are...