At the Mirror II
Watching a woman at the mirror in the morning is a bit like watching someone meditate, the careful, ...
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, the crash of the closeout behind them, carefully balanced in the arms of the Mother on their way to shore. Most often it's called getting shacked.
I have never had the opportunity, but keep surfing in the hope that one day the waves and my timing will be just right and I'll be ready. I can only dream what it must be like, for now.
C.J. Hobgood is a WSL (World Surf League) champion surfer, and getting shacked is probably an everyday occurrence for him. In 2015 he filmed a GoPro video, dancing along a perfect wave into a perfect sunset in an apocalyptic drama that took my breath away . . . and I had to paint it.
Watching a woman at the mirror in the morning is a bit like watching someone meditate, the careful, ...
The waves in San Diego are generally small. When they get big, they’re seldom rideable. But so...
Modern photography has enabled us to see the mother ocean and the children of the tides who play in ...
The Plumerias were glorious these year, one of them with bright pink flowers and warm yellow hearts,...