Precious
There is a calm amid the chaos of the ocean waves. The rising and falling of the water, the energy o...
How to Start an Awesome Day
There is nothing like this feeling. The wind in your face, the weight of your ride held high over your head, the smell of mother ocean wafting around you, the first splash of the chilly water around your ankles, the feel of a trillion billion grains of sand beneath your feet as you shuffle out through the shallows on a new adventure.
Sometimes it doesn't go well. Sometimes stingrays find your ankles for target practice, sometimes the fin of another surfer sends you for stitches, sometimes the surf is so bad it's more frustrating than ecstatic.
But it always starts this way and always . . . you are so grateful you went.
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