A Moment to Myself
Just give me a minute, will you? Can I take a breath, hear and do and think about NOTHING for just o...
O.B. Closeout
A moment at one of my favorite beach breaks, Ocean Beach, the Dog Beach end, in San Diego.
There are times when you're surfing you see that perfect shape, that perfect barrel, it's usually too small to call epic but it's beautiful anyway.
And sometimes, it has a sister coming from exactly the opposite direction toward you, and the only thing to do is jump into her foamy arms. :-)
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