Sunset Ocean Beach
Say what you want about California, about the overabundance of liberals, about a corrupt and bankrup...

A moment at one of my favorite beach breaks, Ocean Beach, the Dog Beach end, in San Diego.
There are times when you're surfing you see that perfect shape, that perfect barrel, it's usually too small to call epic but it's beautiful anyway.
And sometimes, it has a sister coming from exactly the opposite direction toward you, and the only thing to do is jump into her foamy arms. :-)
Say what you want about California, about the overabundance of liberals, about a corrupt and bankrup...
There is nothing like this feeling. The wind in your face, the weight of your ride held high over yo...
Hear them chirp at the birds, flying from the neighboring roof to the nest in the eaves of the house...
Several years ago I was near poverty, struggling to fetch out a living in a southern Oregon town, li...