Hobgood’s Ride
There are many terms surfers use when they back into a breaking wave with the tube covering them, th...
Precious
There is a calm amid the chaos of the ocean waves. The rising and falling of the water, the energy of the breath of Luna as it crests and rolls and crashes at the shore, the ripples that speak as the breeze dances across the surface, the feathery kisses of the water as it laps against my legs, it is all so soothing and relaxing, the endless sky of summer wrapping the world in blue.
It feels like home.
I don't really know why I call this one Precious, it's just the word that comes to me when I look at it.
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