Pondering Atlantis
One of the things I love about surfing is just being on the water, letting mother ocean take me up a...

In 1995, a car accident left Pascale Honore paraplegic. She would watch her son and his friends surf, dreaming of a day where she could join them, missing the pull of the ocean so much.
In 2013, one of her son's friends, Tyron Swan, got a wild idea. "Let's duct tape you to my back and paddle out."
Insane. Some say stupid. Outrageous, senseless, reckless, and most damning of all, impossible . . . and in one of the most awesome and inspiring acts I have ever heard of, Duct Tape Surfing was born. A paraplegic woman and a loving young man proving to all of us that anything is possible.
We all miss Pascale so much. I never actually knew her but was friends with her on Facebook and loved her for who she was, such an inspiration to myself and millions around the world. See my tribute to the loss of one of the greatest sisters of the tides here.
One of the things I love about surfing is just being on the water, letting mother ocean take me up a...
A moment at one of my favorite beach breaks, Ocean Beach, the Dog Beach end, in San Diego. There are...
Watching a woman at the mirror in the morning is a bit like watching someone meditate, the careful, ...
A friend posted this on Facebook and I told her, "I simply must paint this." So I did. The...